THE KATOOMBA LANDSLIDES OF 1931

THE KATOOMBA LANDSLIDES OF 1931

Photo taken June 1960

What was once a place of high drama is now practically forgotten. The site of these great landslides cannot be seen from any of the well-known lookouts, nor does a sign point to any place from which it can be seen (with the exception of the track from the Scenic Railway). In fact, with the continued discoloration of the once-clean rock face as oxidation takes effect and plants make it their home, the site is beginning to look much the same as the rest of the cliff line. The site is usually referred to as at “the Dog Face Rock”. Presumably this landmark was lost when the cliff collapsed.

Even the jumble of debris at the base of the cliff and down into the valley is becoming overgrown in spite of gravity pulling it further down the slope.

So, what is the story of this place and where can you go to see what remains? We only know that cracks behind the top of the cliffs were first reported in 1929, apparently by a miner returning from work at the coal mine in the valley below.

It became apparent that a major rock fall was imminent, though what that might mean in geological terms wasn’t at all clear, since no-one had witnessed anything like this in the Blue Mountains previously (nor has it been observed since, to my knowledge). As 1930 advanced, the cracks widened noticeably and pieces of rock regularly detached themselves and hurtled into the valley below. Crowds came to watch, hoping to be there for the climax when hundreds of thousands of tons of rock would fall in one great mass.

2014

January 1931 arrived. By this time anybody and everybody was practically holding their breath, waiting for the GREAT EVENT. See the Sydney Morning Herald article (Tuesday 27^th January 1931) here. It happened (unfortunately, as these things tend to happen) around 4am on the morning of 29^th January. There were no witnesses and no photographs, though there are plenty of the lead-up and the aftermath. This was not the end, as things turned out, because it soon became obvious that there would be a further fall before long. This took place on Saturday 2^nd May, at around 2pm, according to the Herald report in the edition of Monday 4 ^th May, page 9 (here). The report mentions witnesses, but evidently they weren’t carrying cameras and I can’t even find a mention of their names. It’s a bit late in 2014 to be asking for eyewitness reports, though. The Sydney Mail of Wednesday 6^th May has a good report, including some photographs taken at around the time of the fall (here). There must have been many smaller falls after this, but people’s interests moved on. This all happened during the Great Depression and there more pressing issues to worry about than yet another landslide at Katoomba.

2014

So where can you go to see the site today? If you take the walk from the bottom of the Scenic Railway towards the Ruined Castle, you will soon find yourself crossing the debris field of the Landslide. See my video on this walk here. 

Landslide Lookout is perched at the highest point of the actual break in the sandstone cliff, but you can’t see the landslide itself from here. You can, however get a good view from Narrow Neck Lookout by heading off through the scrub to the left (ie, away from the Narrow Neck below you). See my video Cliff Drive Lookouts here. There are many places along Glenraphael Drive (which goes along the Narrow Neck peninsula) where you can see the landslide, but naturally they are further away. See my video Narrow Neck Lookouts here.

Landslide Lookout 2014

An assortment of photographs may be found in Trove here. 

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From below June 1960

June 1963

 

THE GIANT STAIRWAY KATOOMBA, BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

THE GIANT STAIRWAY KATOOMBA, BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

Ranger McKay - first construction phase

This popular walking track leads from the cliff-top near the Three Sisters to the Dardanelles Pass at the base of the cliffs below. It was conceived by Ranger Jim McKay, an employee of the Katoomba Council, which approved the construction of the track in July 1916. By this time the Grand Stairway at Wentworth Falls, Furber Steps at Katoomba Falls and the descent to the bottom of Govett’s Leap at Blackheath had all been in use for a few years.

                   Moss Vale High Students 1972

McKay’s proposal to chip

out flights of steps in the cliff face, linked by ladders where necessary, was thought by many to be ridiculous, if not impossible, though the construction of the other three descents showed that it probably could be done, given enough time and effort. McKay and his assistants made good progress, but the middle of the First World War was not the best of times and Council called a halt in August 1918.

It was not until early in 1932 that work resumed, again under the direction of Ranger McKay. They had done such a good job in the earlier construction period that the Stairway was completed in time for the official opening by the Premier of NSW (the Hon. BSB Stevens) in October of that year. See my Blog on Echo Point and the Three Sisters here for information about that event.

Since that day, the stairway has gone through the usual stages of disrepair and renovation common to all Blue Mountains tracks. At present (November 2014) it is in excellent condition but it will always be a challenge to keep it that way.

There is a lot of information in print and on line about this great tourist attraction. Keith Painter’s booklet “The Giant Stairway” (Mountain Mist Books, 2005) may be ordered here. The Blue Mountains Local Studies series is an excellent on line publication. You will find an article on the Giant Stairway here. Of videos, there is no end. I’ll confine myself to just two – my own (here) and an unusual one of a running descent, which makes me glad that I am not that sort of fanatic (here).

McKay's Lookout Leura 2013

It seems as if the workers who constructed these Blue Mountains masterpieces have had scant recognition. Underpaid and overworked, they were clearly people who loved what they did. Their monuments are the sculptured cliffs and outcrops they left for our benefit. Jim McKay’s name is remembered in two places today. The first is the line at the bottom of the plaque at the top of the Giant Stairway, which looks like an afterthought. The second is the neglected lookout between Leura Cascades and the old Kiosk, just off Cliff Drive. I think he deserves more than that.

 The photograph opposite is from the Northern Star (Lismore), 28th September 1932. The associated text reads: "A party of  aldermen and officials making an inspection of the stairway while in the course of construction.The successful completion of this work has provided a connecting line with the famous Federal Pass midway between Katoomba Falls and Leura Falls.This stairway should prove the most popular attraction on the Blue Mountains. It will be officially opened by the Premier of N.S.W., Mr Stevens, on October 1, 1932."

Leura Forest picnic area

It has indeed become one of the most popular attractions on the Blue Mountains. What would the writer think of Scenic World, I wonder?

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THE NATIONAL PASS WENTWORTH FALLS NSW AUSTRALIA

THE NATIONAL PASS WENTWORTH FALLS 

NSW AUSTRALIA

The Cliff Ledge section of the track

So much has been written about this famous walk, and so many photographs taken, that it almost seems unnecessary to add to them. However, this is my own experience of the Blue Mountains that I am writing about, so I make no further apologies.

My earliest memories of the National Pass go back to a time just after World War 11, possibly before my father began working at Wunderlich’s brick and tile factory in Sydney, which would place it in 1945. The only thing I can actually recall is being carried across the shaky and dangerous bridges at the bottom of the Falls. Goodness knows when the last repairs had been made to them.

Much more recently, my own children did the walk 

Roland, Yvonne and Lyndall Paix 1978

at a tender age in 1978. On my recent walk, I encountered numerous seniors, so if you’re getting on in years don’t let your age be the deciding factor. True, there are lots of steps to get down into the valley and return, but just take these slowly and all should be well.

The round walk easily divides into 5 sections and each one has an interesting history of its own.

The best place to find car parking is at the Wentworth Falls Picnic Area, and since your walk is going to take around 4 hours it makes sense to arrive early to be sure of finding a spot. Carry your lunch with you and enjoy it along the track. Make sure you have plenty of water as well, 

Empress Falls Valley of the Waters

since drinking from the many streams you will encounter is not  recommended. The alternative car park at the Conservation Hut is often filled up by patrons enjoying the fine food on offer there.

Sylvia Falls Valley of the Waters

I recommend that you take the Short Cut Track from the bottom car park, which is a pleasant walk of 15-20 minutes leading to the Conservation Hut. Historically, there has been a track between these 2 areas for over 100 years, because it made round trips possible.  This is Section 1. 

Section 2 is the magnificent descent into the Valley of the Waters. If you love the sound and sight of falling water, this place is for you. Take the steps and ladders slowly and savour every moment in this magical place. People like you have been coming here for 120 years and it isn’t difficult to see why.

Section 3 (the first part of the actual National Pass section) begins at the final creek crossing just above Lodore Falls and takes you onto the extraordinary cliff ledge leading around to the bottom of the first drop of Wentworth Falls. Before 1906, it was possible to go further down into the valley and follow up Jamison Creek to the bottom of the second fall, but it was only the completion of the ledge track that allowed easy access to bottom of the first 

fall. All along this section (and up the Grand Stairway) the National Parks and Wild Life Service has installed commemorative plaques and information panels telling of the restoration of the track and the environment through which it passes. These are a valuable addition to your walking experience.

The area immediately below Wentworth Falls is like a magnet which draws lots of people to it, many of whom descend the stairs and return the same way. If you want to find this place peaceful and quiet, then avoid school holidays and weekends.

Materials used during the restoration of the track

Section 4, the stone stairway up the cliff face,  is surely the highlight of the National Pass adventure. Completed in 1908, it made the round trip as we know it possible. You can discover lots about this magnificent feat of engineering in many places, but here are two of the best. The first I will simply call “a very special presentation”, which you may access here. The second is the NPWS site which is also excellent.

Den Fenella Falls

Section 5 consists of the track from the creek crossing to the Wentworth Falls picnic area. This route, more or less, has been in use for 150 years.

My own video of this walk may be found here. Unfortunately, my camera battery failed just after I  had passed behind Den Fenella Falls, so this part of the trip is not included. One day I’ll do the trip again (and again, if my body permits me) and there will be a new video to record the event.

NOTE: THE PASS IS CLOSED DUE TO ROCKFALLS AS AT AUGUST 2019 AND HAS BEEN FOR OVER A YEAR.

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Vera and John Paix on the Grand Stairway June 1958

O’SULLIVAN’S FOLLY, NARROW NECK KATOOMBA NSW AUSTRALIA

O’SULLIVAN’S FOLLY, NARROW NECK KATOOMBA NSW AUSTRALIA

Near the lowest point on Glenraphael Drive, a well-made road leads off to the right. Vehicles won’t get far along it, however, as there is a locked gate at the first bend. See my video on Narrow Neck lookouts for more information.

The road leads down to a Sydney Water pumping station at the cliff edge. This is an historic spot, because in this vicinity workers from the oil shale mines in the Megalong Valley below once had a series of ladders to get up the cliffs at a point where they are at their lowest. More recently ladders were built here when the pipeline was constructed from the Fish River Dam. I can remember climbing them several times in the 1960’s. 

Pick marks

Since then, the top and bottom ladders have been removed to discourage climbers from using them.

It is not with ladders or the pipeline that we are concerned here, rather with the road itself which has long been known locally as “O’Sullivan’s Folly”. The fact that the cliffs were lower here, and the presence of the miner’s route to Katoomba, gave root to the idea that it might be possible to construct a road at this point into the Megalong Valley. As you look at the cliffs you might wonder how the road was to be built from where it now ends down to the valley floor.

Jesus told the story of a man who began to build a tower, but left it unfinished when he ran out of money (and thereby made himself look foolish). So it was with this road.

Edward William O’Sullivan was born in Launceston, Tasmania, in 1846 of Irish Catholic parents. He eventually settled in NSW where he became a successful journalist and printer. He strongly supported the fledgling Labor Party of the day and by all reports was an honest, hard-working man. Having been elected to the NSW parliament in 1885 as the representative for Queanbeyan, he soon became one of its most prominent members. In 1899, as Secretary for Public Works, he approved the expenditure of funds for the construction of a road from Katoomba into the Megalong Valley via the approximate route of the then existing miners’ ladders.

The money ran out long before the road could be completed (if it ever could have been) and jokers began calling it “O’Sullivan’s Folly”, which, of course they still do. It doesn’t ring true to O’Sullivan’s character to waste public money that way. He would have been thinking of the jobs the project created and the benefit to the residents of the valley below. Perhaps he was just given bad advice by Katoomba residents who should have known better.

My interest in EW O’Sullivan goes back more than 30 years to the time I found several bottles underneath an old house. Much the most interesting was a Codd or marble bottle from the town of Queanbeyan, bearing the inscription “GN Morton Queanbeyan EWOS The Keystone” surrounding a picture of a man’s head. The portrait is, of course, none other than that of the subject of this blog. GN (George Nairn) Morton was a cordial maker in the town around 1900-1915. 

 

But what did “The Keystone” mean? O’Sullivan died in 1910, and in the various newspaper reports of his life I discovered that he frequently referred to himself as “The Keystone of the Democratic Arch”. I now believe that Morton had this bottle designed to honour a man he greatly admired and that this probably happened soon after EWOS’s death. So it was that the soft drink bottles of Queanbeyan (and, as it turned out, those of the new Federal capital, Canberra) bore the likeness of a politician.

The design remained in use for perhaps 10 years, long enough, at least for the old-fashioned marble bottles to be replaced by new-fangled crown seals. These bottles are in great demand from collectors today. My specimen has been packed away for years and the photograph is one I extracted from an online auction catalogue. It wouldn’t surprise me to see it bring $1000 +, which isn’t far short of what O’Sullivan’s Folly cost to build.

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