THE NATIONAL PASS WENTWORTH FALLS NSW AUSTRALIA

THE NATIONAL PASS WENTWORTH FALLS 

NSW AUSTRALIA

The Cliff Ledge section of the track

So much has been written about this famous walk, and so many photographs taken, that it almost seems unnecessary to add to them. However, this is my own experience of the Blue Mountains that I am writing about, so I make no further apologies.

My earliest memories of the National Pass go back to a time just after World War 11, possibly before my father began working at Wunderlich’s brick and tile factory in Sydney, which would place it in 1945. The only thing I can actually recall is being carried across the shaky and dangerous bridges at the bottom of the Falls. Goodness knows when the last repairs had been made to them.

Much more recently, my own children did the walk 

Roland, Yvonne and Lyndall Paix 1978

at a tender age in 1978. On my recent walk, I encountered numerous seniors, so if you’re getting on in years don’t let your age be the deciding factor. True, there are lots of steps to get down into the valley and return, but just take these slowly and all should be well.

The round walk easily divides into 5 sections and each one has an interesting history of its own.

The best place to find car parking is at the Wentworth Falls Picnic Area, and since your walk is going to take around 4 hours it makes sense to arrive early to be sure of finding a spot. Carry your lunch with you and enjoy it along the track. Make sure you have plenty of water as well, 

Empress Falls Valley of the Waters

since drinking from the many streams you will encounter is not  recommended. The alternative car park at the Conservation Hut is often filled up by patrons enjoying the fine food on offer there.

Sylvia Falls Valley of the Waters

I recommend that you take the Short Cut Track from the bottom car park, which is a pleasant walk of 15-20 minutes leading to the Conservation Hut. Historically, there has been a track between these 2 areas for over 100 years, because it made round trips possible.  This is Section 1. 

Section 2 is the magnificent descent into the Valley of the Waters. If you love the sound and sight of falling water, this place is for you. Take the steps and ladders slowly and savour every moment in this magical place. People like you have been coming here for 120 years and it isn’t difficult to see why.

Section 3 (the first part of the actual National Pass section) begins at the final creek crossing just above Lodore Falls and takes you onto the extraordinary cliff ledge leading around to the bottom of the first drop of Wentworth Falls. Before 1906, it was possible to go further down into the valley and follow up Jamison Creek to the bottom of the second fall, but it was only the completion of the ledge track that allowed easy access to bottom of the first 

fall. All along this section (and up the Grand Stairway) the National Parks and Wild Life Service has installed commemorative plaques and information panels telling of the restoration of the track and the environment through which it passes. These are a valuable addition to your walking experience.

The area immediately below Wentworth Falls is like a magnet which draws lots of people to it, many of whom descend the stairs and return the same way. If you want to find this place peaceful and quiet, then avoid school holidays and weekends.

Materials used during the restoration of the track

Section 4, the stone stairway up the cliff face,  is surely the highlight of the National Pass adventure. Completed in 1908, it made the round trip as we know it possible. You can discover lots about this magnificent feat of engineering in many places, but here are two of the best. The first I will simply call “a very special presentation”, which you may access here. The second is the NPWS site which is also excellent.

Den Fenella Falls

Section 5 consists of the track from the creek crossing to the Wentworth Falls picnic area. This route, more or less, has been in use for 150 years.

My own video of this walk may be found here. Unfortunately, my camera battery failed just after I  had passed behind Den Fenella Falls, so this part of the trip is not included. One day I’ll do the trip again (and again, if my body permits me) and there will be a new video to record the event.

NOTE: THE PASS IS CLOSED DUE TO ROCKFALLS AS AT AUGUST 2019 AND HAS BEEN FOR OVER A YEAR.

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All New England and other Geology blogs and videos

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Limestone Caves of NSW

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Song Studies. Bible studies based on hymns and songs

https://www.blogger.com/blog/posts/1515863000684737715

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Vera and John Paix on the Grand Stairway June 1958

THE OVERCLIFF TRACK, WENTWORTH FALLS BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

THE OVERCLIFF TRACK, WENTWORTH FALLS 

BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

In the period 1880-1910, a maze of walking tracks and lookouts was developed in the Wentworth Falls Reserve under the supervision of a local group of trustees. They were determined to provide access to as many points of interest as possible and today’s tracks and lookouts are essentially those developed at that time.

The present day Undercliff and Overcliff Tracks meet at the bridge over Den Fenella Creek, a point easily reached from the western end of the Wentworth Falls Picnic Area. The National Parks and Wildlife Service has spent a lot of time and effort in rebuilding and restoring these historic tracks and it is only a few months since the Den Fenella track was reopened with many good improvements.        

Restored track

For information on Den Fenella and the Undercliff Track, see this blog entry.

From the bridge over the creek the track ascends to Lady See’s Lookout, then to Breakfast Point Lookout.

There is a link here to Murphy's Lane near the Conservation Hut. The Overcliff track continues to Lyre Bird Lookout, from which  another track ascends to the Short Cut Track. Close by is Queen Victoria Lookout, near the point where the descent into the Valley of the Waters begins. Otherwise, continue up the hill to the Conservation Hut (for a well earned break at the café) or return to the Picnic Area along the Short Cut Track.

Sir John and Lady See bought "Yester Grange" at Wentworth Falls in 1902 as their country residence. At that time Sir John was the Premier of New South Wales. Sadly, Lady See (born Charlotte Mary Matthews) died in March 1904. Sir John resigned soon after and died in 1907. The lookout was opened in 1904 at a ceremony attended by Sir John. It had previously been known as “Picnic Point”.

Lady See's Lookout is closed

At the time of writing, the lookout was closed and in need of repair. It is to be hoped that the NP&WS will soon attend to this and the repair and upgrading of the entire Overcliff Track, which is in need of some serious maintenance work. Note 2024. Much good work has been done on this and nearby tracks

For my video of this walk, click here. 

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View Near Lady See's Lookout

STONEHAVEN PASS, WENTWORTH FALLS BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

STONEHAVEN PASS, WENTWORTH FALLS 

BLUE MOUNTAINS NSW AUSTRALIA

Murphy's Spiral Lookout

I would not be surprised if most readers have never heard of “Stonehaven Pass”. I hadn’t, until I came across Jim Smith’s excellent article on the subject while searching the web for something else. You will find it here ; it will tell you all you would like to know about the Pass – the origin of the name, how it came be to be constructed, then neglected and now made accessible again. You will learn a lot about the Wentworth Falls Reserve Trust and the names given along this track to honour these men and those employed by them to construct and maintain the network of tracks and lookouts that make Wentworth Falls such a great place to visit today. * Unfortunately Jim Smith's article has been removed from the Web since this blog was written.

Photo from the State Library
 of Queensland

I doubt that Baron Stonehaven (Governor General of Australia 1925-1930) ever heard of this short walk now named after him. He certainly never came to Wentworth Falls as the Trustees hoped he would, nor did the pass become a popular walking track. In fact, it fairly quickly faded into obscurity (as did other tracks) as the years of the Depression and World War 11 rolled by and the changeover to management by, first of all the Blue Mountains City Council and then by the National Parks and Wildlife Service.

I started the walk from the Princes Rock track, from which it branches to the right as you descend, a little below the old well on the left. There is presently no sign post, but there is a National Parks sign soon after entering. If you are coming from the Den Fenella track, the turnoff is on the left a minute or so after you start down the hill. There is an identical sign at this end of the track, but nothing at the actual turnoff.                                                                               

See my video of the walk or study Jim Smith’s map (or both) to get an idea of the layout. The track is easy to follow, if a little wet in places (hanging swamps abound in this part of the National Park). The lookouts have the remains of the original fencing around their edges but they wouldn’t help you much if you slipped. It is definitely not a place for children unless they are closely supervised.

The men working on the Den Fenella track told me that they believed the Stonehaven Pass track was also going to be upgraded. Much as I enjoyed the walk the way it is, I guess that making it more accessible will allow more people to appreciate it. Meanwhile, thank you to those who did the work back in the 1920’s and those who reopened the track as it is today.

 My You Tube video of Stonehaven Pass may be found here .

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Song Studies. Bible studies based on hymns and songs

https://www.blogger.com/blog/posts/1515863000684737715

Shoalhaven District Geology.

DEN FENELLA, WENTWORTH FALLS BLUE MOUNTAINS NEW SOUTH WALES AUSTRALIA

DEN FENELLA, WENTWORTH FALLS 

BLUE MOUNTAINS NEW SOUTH WALES AUSTRALIA

The Den Fenella track leaves the Wentworth Falls picnic area at the car park end, right next to several “heritage” shelter sheds. It’s downhill all the way on a good track. Once the creek is crossed at the Undercliff track junction, the final part of 

The National Pass track

the descent follows a steeply dropping gorge until the cliff is reached, where the creek plunges into the Jamison Valley. Immediately below is the National Pass and from the lookout you can see the pathway following a claystone layer in the sandstone cliff.

From an old book of views

I can recall visits to Den Fenella as far back as the early fifties and I always wondered how this lovely spot got its name. It has certainly been in use since the 1880’s. I came across this item on the Web here which reads: “Den Fenella, romantic ravine, SE. Kincardineshire; extends from 1½ mile SE. of Laurencekirk to 1½ mile SW. of Johnshaven; is traditionally named from Fenella, a daughter of the Maormar of Angus, slain here in 995; near the sea the Fenella Burn makes a beautiful waterfall, 65 ft. in leap.” I guess the place at Wentworth Falls was named by some homesick Scotsman.

Den Fenella Lookout

You can view my video of the Princes Rock – Den Fenella walk here .

An excellent video called “Den Fenella Track, Blue Mountains”, by  palevo7, can be found here .

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All New England and other Geology blogs and videos

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Limestone Caves of NSW

https://www.blogger.com/blog/post/edit/1147003616874115974/2430103125095714141

Song Studies. Bible studies based on hymns and songs

https://www.blogger.com/blog/posts/1515863000684737715

Shoalhaven District Geology.

My grandchildren Kristen and Bonnie Eastlake at Den Fenella October 2004